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Polysorbate 20 is an ingredient commonly found in many skin care and cosmetic products, serving as an emulsifier to blend oils and water. However, there is increasing concern from consumers about the safety and effects of this synthetic ingredient as more people grow wary of chemical additives in their beauty routines.
Take a look at the ingredient list on your facial cleanser, body wash, toner, or moisturizer, and see if you find polysorbate 20 in your skin care products. If you do, you may want to shop for something better next time—particularly if your child uses the product, too.
In this article, we will examine the chemical composition of polysorbate 20, how it is produced, and research on its possible health impacts. We’ll also provide suggestions for natural alternatives, so you can avoid polysorbate 20 and feel confident about the ingredients you put on your skin.
What is Polysorbate 20 in Skin Care?
Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier used in many cosmetic and skin care products like lotions, creams, cleansers, and more. Its job is to help blend oils and water together into a stabilized emulsion.
In its original form, polysorbate is a harmless sorbitol, which is a sugar alcohol. To make polysorbate 20 however, the sorbitol undergoes a process called ethoxylation. This involves reacting the sorbitol with ethylene oxide, which results in the synthesized ingredient we know as polysorbate 20.
The number 20 in the name refers to the fact that the sorbitol has been ethoxylated with 20 units of ethylene oxide. The more ethylene oxide units added, the lower the viscosity and enhanced emulsification ability.
Why is Polysorbate 20 Bad for Your Skin?
Contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane
While polysorbate 20 is functional for emulsifying, the ethoxylation process to produce it also results in contaminants. One of these byproducts is 1,4-dioxane, a known carcinogen and irritant that readily penetrates skin.
While no federal limits on 1,4-dioxane in cosmetics currently exist, independent studies have detected its presence in many personal care products.
When considering that many people use multiple beauty products daily from a young age, chronic exposure to 1,4-dioxane is a valid concern. The risk is even greater with increased use, larger surface areas of application, and practices like bathing that can allow deeper penetration.
Skin Irritation and Allergies
Beyond 1,4-dioxane, polysorbate 20 has been associated with skin irritation in animal studies. Cases of allergic reactions have also been reported, especially in children’s products containing the ingredient.
There is so much concern about this contaminant that a class-action lawsuit was filed in New Jersey against manufacturers of children’s bath and personal-care products. Defendants manufactured, distributed, marketed, or sold products containing formaldehyde and 1,4-dioxane.
More Concerns about 1,4-Dioxane in Cosmetics
The Organic Consumers Organization, adopting information from the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, released a fact sheet on 1,4-dioxane. They report that the levels of 1,4-dioxane found in many personal care products are 1,000 times higher than those found to cause cancer in animal studies.
And according to the FDA, “Skin absorption studies demonstrated that dioxane readily penetrates animal and human skin from various types of vehicles.”
This can be especially concerning if you’re taking a hot bath or shower. As your pores open up, your skin could be taking in even more of the 1,4-dioxane in the product.
Other Polysorbate 20 Toxicity Concerns
In addition to the risks of 1,4-dioxane contamination, polysorbate 20 itself may also have concerning toxicity effects:
- Polysorbate 20 could potentially disrupt hormone function and reproduction by interfering with the endocrine system.
- Polysorbate 20 is identified as an irritant to mucous membranes in safety data sheets and chemical hazard classifications.
- Upper respiratory irritation has been reported from occupational settings with polysorbate 20 exposure. Precautions recommended for workers to avoid inhalation.
- Inhalation of polysorbate 20, such as from aerosolized products, heightens risk of respiratory irritation. Symptoms may include coughing, wheezing, chest tightness.
- Polysorbate 20 is also identified as a potential trigger for fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis), an inflammatory skin condition exacerbated by yeast overgrowth. The structure of polysorbate 20 resembles lipids in the skin that malassezia consumes as a food source.
Build Your Perfect Skin Care Regimen
Take QuizAs I’ve often said, if you were exposed to this ingredient only once in awhile, you likely would have no reason to be concerned. The problem is that most of us use 10 or more products a day, several times a day, every day.
If even a couple of those have polysorbate-20, the exposure could be adding up, especially if it’s penetrating the skin. And The concern is even greater for young children.
Natural Substitutes for Polysorbate 20
To avoid this ingredient, just read the ingredient lists on labels. It’s easy enough to find. Better yet, prioritize shopping at whole foods stores, organic shops, and online stores that offer natural and nourishing alternatives.
For Natural Emulsifiers
The good news is there are natural alternatives to polysorbate 20 that avoid the risks and provide effective emulsification.
Here are some options:
- Beeswax: Made by bees to hold honeycomb together, beeswax thickens oils and helps bind them to water naturally. It conditions skin too.
- Cetearyl alcohol: Derived from coconut or palm oil, cetearyl alcohol acts as an emollient and emulsifier, providing stability and a creamy texture to cosmetics.
- Sorbitan Olivate: Derived from olive oil, Sorbitan Olivate is a moisturizing emulsifying agent that blends water and oil seamlessly, creating stable and luxurious cosmetic formulations.
- Candelilla Wax: Obtained from the candelilla shrub, this wax serves as a natural thickening and stabilizing agent, providing structure to products like lip balms, creams, and lotions.
- Xanthan Gum: A polysaccharide produced through fermentation. A versatile emulsifier and thickener that enhances texture and viscosity in cosmetic formulations.
- Vegetable Glycerin: Derived from plant oils. A natural humectant that attracts and retains moisture, improving the moisturizing properties of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums.
Identifying Polysorbate 20-Free Products
Making informed choices is key to avoiding risky ingredients like polysorbate 20 in your beauty routine. When purchasing cosmetics and skin care:
- Check ingredient lists carefully and avoid purchasing items containing polysorbate 20.
- Look for products from natural, organic brands that you trust that emphasize safe ingredients.
- Do research on companies and contact them with questions if uncertain about specific ingredients.
- Opt for items where you recognize and understand all ingredients on the label.
You can also visit our online store for products that are free of Polysorbate 20 and safe for you and your family.
Conclusion
Polysorbate 20 is an ubiquitous ingredient in many beauty and skin care products, valued for its emulsification abilities. However, the risks of contaminants like cancer-causing 1,4-dioxane give reason for concern, especially with repeated use over many years.
While some exposure may be harmless, it is wise to exercise caution with ingredients made using harsh chemical processes. Seeking out safer products that use natural emulsifiers, like e beeswax and xanthan gum, allows you to avoid potential hazards while still caring gently for your skin.
As shoppers pay more attention to what goes onto and into their bodies, knowing what you are buying becomes critical. Stay curious and don’t feel afraid to question the status quo when it comes to commonly-seen ingredients like polysorbate 20. Opt for products using pure, , high-quality, trustworthy ingredients whenever possible.
Your skin is your body’s largest organ–nourish it well by being an educated, selective shopper. Avoiding chemical additives like polysorbate 20 is one way to care both for your health and appearance safely.
Terri Zbysinski
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!
Claudine Cremet
I just noticed that the Quantum Health product called TheraZinc, which is a throat spray used to treat colds, has polysorbate 20 listed as its second ingredient. I compared the current list of ingredients to an older bottle which I had and found that the Peg-40 castor oil had been replaced by polysorbate 20. I called the Quantum company in Eugene, Oregon and at first was told that polysorbate 20 had always been in the TheraZinc formulation. I corrected the customer service representative and told her it had not, at which point she put me on hold. She came back on the line and told me that this ingredient was added to keep the oils and water in the product from separating. I expressed concern that it was now in the product and furthermore was the second ingredient listed, indicating that there is more a polysorbate 20 in the TheraZinc spray then there are essential oils such as Echinacea, clove and slippery elm bark, among others. Having read online that polysorbate 20 is not only an irritant but a potential carcinogen, I certainly will not be buying TheraZinc spray again. Buyer beware!
Jay
I was shocked to learn that this ingredient is also used in tampons. Specifically, Playtex sport.
Stephen
There are so many blogs warning against polysorbate-20 but have yet to find one that offer any advice for alternatives which can be really frustrating.
From the info I’ve gathered over the last few days, here’s a list of potential (unverified) alternatives to polysorbate-20 – none of which I’ve tried (yet):
1. Coco Glucoside
2. Cetearyl Glucoside
3. Decyl Glucoside
4. Laurel Glucoside
5. Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
6. Potassium Cocoate
7. Sulfated Castor Oil (Turkey-Red Oil)
8. Glyceryl Oleate
Has anyone had any experience with these?
Jasmine
I agree with Liz.
Please do your research in context and refrain from isolating information. It doesn’t present a fair and comprehensive perspective.
I refer to the report by FDA regarding 1,4 dioxane in cosmetics.
http://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/potentialcontaminants/ucm101566.htm
The report is self-explanatory and conclusive.
Gynomiteful
You can do all the research you want. But historically the government has declared that a certain number of parts per million of this that or the other compound were safe to use, only to be refuted by later studies based on cancer clusters. NO AMOUNT OF A KNOWN CARCINOGEN CAN BE PROVEN TO BE SAFE. By the time they have been proven NOT to be safe, enormous damage has already occurred. There is no such thing as a “comprehensive” report on the safety of 1,4- Dioxane at any concentration. At best there are time-limited studies at specified concentrations wherein no detectable damage had occurred by the end of the study period. If that reassures you, have at it. Remember that 1,4-Dioxane is a BY-PRODUCT which occurs during the manufacturing processes; no one puts it there intentionally. But I don’t see assays of the compound in the products manufactured with Polysorbate 20. So who the hell knows? Avoid!
Gynomiteful
What is “moderation”?
Joris
@gynomiteful Amen! People still put all their trust in these governmental organisations. Even though most studies are still being done by the manufacturers and only checked by these organisations like the FDA or which ever. Like asbestos and glyphosate have also been approved as safe in the past. I think we already know better by now.
Veronica
Hi,
Im trying some DYI home and body tutorials off a Pure natural company who sells this Polysorbate 20 ingredient.
Can you advise if the following ingredients combined with the Polysorbate 20 ingredient will be harmful?:
100ml Mist glass spray bottle
20ml Witch Hazel Extract
2ml Fragrance or Essential Oil of your choice
10ml Polysorbate 20
Distilled water to fill
I think you suggest that the ingredient is ok to use (not harmful)…. but may be harmful if combined with other potential ingredients in the product?
Thanks
Annmarie Skin Care
We don’t suggest using this ingredient and we don’t use it in our skin care at all.
Jodi
I purchased and used Banana Boat Aloe Vera spray gel which contains Polysorbate 20. This morning I woke up with a rash. Small blister type bumps all over my back, chest and stomach area. My husband applied this to my back after I was in the sun for about 30 minutes.
This urged me to look up the ingredients to see if there was anything that I could have caused me an allergic reaction.
I am not, to my knowledge allergic to many things, especially lotions, etc..
After reading this article, I have now become more aware of what I am suing and putting on my body.
Great article, thanks for the knowledge!
Sally McKenzie
I have a very bad reaction to coconut and any of its derivatives – especially the cocamides. I ordered a kid’s shampoo that promised not to have anything like that in it but I notice today, the fourth ingredients is Polysorbate 20.
I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that this is derived from coconut. Do you know?
I’m putting off giving it ‘a go’ because my reaction can be really ghastly.
Annmarie Skin Care
Hi Sally,
We’re not sure what the source of the Polysorbate 20 is in the shampoo you bought. We would suggest emailing the company and asking because it’s possible that this ingredient can be derived from many different things.
Sharon
What is a good replacement to emulsify and combine water and oil?
Nat
What is a good replacement to emulsify and combine water and oil?–
Yes, that is what exactly what i’ve been searching. Most of them gave negative input of this polysorbate-20 and EG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, but none have given the “organic and natural” replacement for this. Pls help. Pls.
Nicolette
This is exactly what I want to know and nobody seems to be able to answer! And this is wat led me to this site: what do I replace polysorbate with??
Melanie LaRocca
Polysorbate 20 is used in some pet products. Sorbitol is toxic to dogs. Please read the labels on your pets’ skin care and shampoo products.
maya
hi!
what i find important with skin care made with organic ingredients is that the ingredients are not tested on animals in an unnecessary or cruel way:
“The Cosmetics Database rates Polysorbate 20 as a low hazard ingredient, noting developmental and reproductive toxicity as concerns, but finding these results only in animals after high doses were administered. Lesser concerns regarding this ingredient are endocrine disruption, organ toxicity, and irritation, and one or more animal studies show skin irritation at moderate doses.”
/maya
Pete
it is also used in Twinrix vaccine by Glaxosmithkline
Meredith
Hi. I find all of this very interesting as I have started making my own natural deodorant which calls for polysorbate 20. Would you mind posting a link to your source of information regarding the lawsuit filed in New Jersey? Also I clicked the link to view your fact sheet & received an error that it was invalid. Valid links to your sources, as well as links to the websites of organizations such as The Organic Consumers Organization & Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, would greatly help me see the validity in your statements. I’m curious about polysorbate 20, but I don’t want to be mislead. Thanks so much for your time!
admin
Hi Meredith! Thanks for reading and commenting. I updated that link, so it should work now. 🙂
Kathryn Bache
Hi, You can find the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics here: http://www.safecosmetics.org/
N Vaughn
Yes, Jay and Marcus, not only does she vilify a perfectly safe ingredient, according to listed ingredients on this site, she also sells rosemary hydrosol with zero preservatives. I can only imagine what folks are spraying on their faces after that has been around awhile. Talk about unsafe. A $30 yeast and bacteria cocktail.
admin
Hi there! Thanks for reading and commenting. Don’t worry, our toning mists are perfectly safe. Rosemary is actually a natural antimicrobial, but yes, their shelf life is shorter than a product that has synthetic preservatives in it.
Deb
Rosemary extract is an antioxidant not an antimicrobial preservative.
I live n the EU where it would be illegal to sell your product due to health risks from bacteria, yeasts and moulds which thrive in hydrous products.
naturegirl321
Hydrosols don’t need preservatives.
Elizabeth Preston
Valerie, have you considered using coconut oil as an alternative?
valerie
I have a recipe for making a liquid dish soap that calls for 15% polysorbate 20 and would like to know if you can recommend an alternative I could try in my formulation? I am looking everywhere for advice and can not find anything. I realize that you make and sell products but I hope you can share this information with me! Thank you!
Markus L
Wow, again another misinformed piece of information for the sole purpose of promoting ones own brand. The truth is that not every single blend of poly sorbate 20 is “contaminated” with 1-4 dioxane. I am sure you can find some cheaper raw material blends which have trace amounts, but in general the majority of producers have eliminated it.
So you say you are polysorbate free? What emulsifiers are you using instead? Have you done 1-4 dioxane tests on your own products!
I sincerely hope consumers do a bit more research before vilifying a perfectly safe ingredient thar has been used for decades with no issue.
admin
Hi Markus! We are polysorbate-20 free. There are lots of natural options for emulsifying products! We use a coconut derived wax, and at times (when we’re unable to obtain a good coconut wax source) we use a Non GMO vegetable wax.
nick pasley
Check out the material safety data sheet for it -look out!
http://www.fishersci.com/ecomm/servlet/msdsproxy?productName=BP337100&productDescription=TWEEN 20 100ML&catNo=BP337-100 &vendorId=VN00033897&storeId=10652
Austin Lyon
It is in the NATURAL face paint now I will ever be concealed . : (
Jay Morresey
Watch out folks….this is the new 21st century marketing angle. Scare consumers away from the competition. I’ve been formulating lotions and cremes going on 30 years. This type of misinformation just keeps piling up. Do your homework and PLEASE DON’T believe everything you read and see online. Thanks
Jaime
I got a tattoo about 6 months ago and my body wash has been making my tattoo itch. Didn’t think much of it. Then my kid used some of her tattoo markers on me and when she drew on my tattoo it started itching like crazy! I had to wash it off immediately! I looked at the ingredients in both products to see if it had a similar ingredient. I found that the body wash had potassium sorbate in it and the markers had polysorbate 20 in them. I don’t know the ingredients in the tattoo ink but I think something in it may be reacting with the polysorbate. What harm am I causing my body?
Bobbie Beckman
I came across e toothpaste (in Italy) called Dietifricio. The Italian word for toothpaste is Dentifricio. It was said to bleach your teeth better than anything else( they all do) and to make you loose your weight! You don’t have to swallow five tubes before breakfast to feel full up. You just do as usual brush and rinse and the aftertaste is so horrible specially if combined with sweet drinks and food that it lasts til the next meal, and stop eating between meals. It is just an other way to get intoxicated, if you haven’t been to the dentist recently. It is when I red the contain list I came across your sympathetic site. Among other chemicals this toothpaste contain polysorbate 20. Which one of the other ingredients causes the disgusting taste isn’t yet on the clean.
The dentists are the real polluters in this world and I, being a dentist since -71 fight against the toxic world of the dentists, amalgam, root canal, heavy metals and fluoridation. Bobbie Beckman, Italy.
Keeley
Hi, you can use activated charcoal for teeth whitening as well as take it internally to rid your body of toxins. I use coconut activated charcoal rather than from the hardwood which I purchased on Amazon. Don’t let the color intimidate you though!
Denise
I arrived at this page while investigating the ingredients in my Whole Foods Citrus Grapefruit Shampoo. It contains polysorbate-20 and Sodium Benzoate (When sodium benzoate combines with ascorbic acid (vitamin C) benzene can form, which is a known carcinogen).
Em
Hi I use a fake tan that has polysorbate 20 as the 2nd ingredient. Iv been using it since 2010 on and off, but recently been using it every 2nd week for a few months now.. I’m starting to become ingredient conscious and this worries me. What do you mean when you say the polysorbate gets contaminate with the 1,4-dioxane? Does this sometimes not happen and I will be safe??
I might search for an organic fake tan asap
wbliss
The manufacturers are required to test for it by law and they do in fact keep the levels very low. Cosmetic companies lean on manufacturers to keep it even lower. This goes for other common contaminants in cosmetic ingredients as well. There is an anti-anything that does not come directly from nature campaign going on all over the internet right now. If you were doing a campaign such as this where you want people to completely abandon things that are widely used (such as anything that makes foam) would you not overstate the problem? Some unscrupulous biased people will fail to mention problem is being regulated and controlled? Or they use it as a way to dupe people into spending money on their “natural” product. They laugh all the way to the bank. On the other hand. Just like people with allergies to certain things like peanuts or coconuts. It does not affect the majority of the populous. But it is life threatening for a few. They have to know what is in the products they use.
lynette dumont
Is there an ingredient that will blend oils as does polysorbate 20?