Serum or Retinol First? A Guide to the Correct Layering Order

Edit for compliance: Retinol and its plant-based alternatives are widely celebrated ingredients in skin care. But as you look to add this powerhouse to your routine, a critical question arises: which comes first, your trusted hydrating serum or the potent  retinol formula?

It’s a debate with passionate arguments on both sides. Should the serum go on first to prep and hydrate the skin, or should the retinol go on first for maximum impact? Getting the order right is the key to supporting smoother, more revitalized-looking skin while helping minimize the chance of irritation that sometimes causes people to discontinue use.

This guide will provide the definitive answer. We’ll explain the science behind the two correct layering methods, show you step-by-step how to perform each one, and empower you to choose the right technique for your unique skin.

So, Which Comes First? The Answer Depends on Your Goal

Let’s get straight to the answer. There are two correct methods, and the one you choose depends on your primary goal: potency or comfort. For maximum potency, the standard method is to apply your retinol alternative first. Both paths are effective, but they serve different purposes, so let’s explore the simple reason why this choice makes all the difference.

Apply Retinol Alternative Before Other Serums (for Maximum Contact)

If you’re using a renewing serum that contains a retinol alternative—like our Activated Night Serum—you’ll want to apply it first, right after cleansing and toning while your skin is still slightly damp. This ensures the formula makes direct contact with the skin before any additional layers are added.

Applying it first doesn’t make it “stronger,” but it does allow the formula to sit closest to the skin, which is ideal when you’re pairing it with other applications. Once it absorbs, you can follow with hydrating or soothing serums and then your moisturizing step.

Apply Serum Before Retinol for Comfort (The “Buffering” Method)

This is the gold-standard technique for beginners or anyone with sensitive skin. It involves applying a simple, hydrating serum first to create a gentle, moisturizing “cushion” on the skin. This buffer doesn’t block the retinol alternative; it simply slows down its absorption, acting like a time-release mechanism. This gives your skin more time to adjust to the powerful ingredient, dramatically reducing the risk of dryness and irritation while you still get the amazing long-term benefits. A calming formula like our Anti-Aging Serum is perfect for this.

The Ritual: A Step-by-Step Guide to Layering

Now that you understand the two core philosophies—potency vs. comfort—let’s translate them into a practical, step-by-step ritual. Below are the precise instructions for both the ‘retinol-first’ method and the gentle ‘buffering’ technique. Choose the one that best aligns with your skin’s current needs and experience level.

The Retinol-First Method (For Experienced Users)

1. Cleanse & Tone: Cleanse your face and gently pat it dry. Mist your toning mist over face and neck.
2. Apply Your Retinol Alternative: Dispense a pea-sized amount of your product, like our Activated Night Serum, and apply a thin, even layer.
   Optional Boost: For those who want a more concentrated dose of our retinol alternative, you can mix 1–3 drops of our Revitalize Concentrated Boosting Elixir into your Activated Night Serum before applying.
3. Wait 5-10 Minutes: This crucial pause allows the activated ingredient to fully absorb without interference.
4. Apply Your Hydrating Serum: Now, apply your hydrating or soothing serum, such as our Probiotic Serum With Tremella, to replenish moisture.
5. Moisturize: Finish with your favorite moisturizer to lock everything in.

The Buffering Method (For Beginners & Sensitive Skin)

1. Cleanse & Tone: Cleanse your face and apply your hydrating toner.
2. Apply Your Hydrating Serum: While skin is still damp, apply a thin layer of your chosen “buffer” serum.
3. Wait Until Completely Dry: Wait 5-10 minutes until the serum is fully absorbed and your face feels completely dry to the touch. Mist your toning mist again. 
4. Apply Your Retinol Alternative: Apply a pea-sized amount on top of the serum layer.
5. Moisturize: Finish with your moisturizer to create a final, comforting seal.

Essential Rules for a Safe Retinol Journey

Knowing the correct layering order is crucial, but for a truly successful, irritation-free journey, these foundational rules are just as important. Think of them as your safety checklist for achieving beautiful results.

Rule #1: Apply in the Evening (PM) Only

Renewing ingredients like retinol alternatives are generally recommended for nighttime use. Applying them in the evening helps minimize the chance of sun sensitivity, since these formulas can make skin more reactive to UV exposure. Using your retinol alternative at night—paired with daily sunscreen in the morning—is the simplest and safest way to incorporate it into your routine.

Rule #2: Start Low and Go Slow

Do not start by using your retinol alternative every night—this is the single biggest mistake beginners make. The key to success is allowing your skin time to build tolerance. We recommend starting by using your formula just 2-3 nights per week, with “rest days” in between for your skin to recover and adapt.

Rule #3: Sunscreen is Your Non-Negotiable Best Friend

Because retinol alternatives can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sunapplying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 20 or higher every single morning is absolutely essential. This step is not optional when you have a retinol alternative in your routine.

Layer with Confidence and Intention

There is no single “right” way to layer your retinol alternative and serum, only the right way for your skin at this moment in its journey. The beauty of these two methods is that they are flexible. You can start with the gentle buffering technique and, as your skin builds resilience over time, graduate to the more potent “retinol-first” method.

The most important rule is to listen to your skin. If it feels tight or looks irritated, take a break and return to a more gentle approach. By doing so, you can enjoy the transformative benefits of this incredible ingredient with confidence and care.

Ready to find the perfect partners for your renewing ritual? Explore our full collection of targeted serums to build your routine.

Frequently Asked Questions

What happens if I get the order wrong?

Don’t panic. If you apply a retinol alternative over a damp serum, you might experience more irritation than usual. If you apply a hydrating serum too quickly over a retinol alternative that hasn’t absorbed, it may be less effective. The key is to be mindful of your technique next time.

Can I use my Vitamin C serum and my retinol alternative on the same night?

We recommend alternating them. Use your Vitamin C serum, like our Citrus Stem Cell Serum, in the morning for its antioxidant benefits, and save your renewing retinol alternative for your nighttime routine.

Can I mix my retinol alternative directly into my moisturizer or serum?No, it’s always best to layer them separately. Mixing can dilute the formula and make it less effective. The only exception would be a specifically designed product like our Concentrated Boosting Elixirs.